NAME OF FRAGRANCE | Veilchen by Frau Tonis Parfum
NOTES | Violet, Raspberry, Licorice
VIBE | Vintage, Elegant, Sultry, Flirtatious, Eccentric, Mysterious
This dusky scent is nearly 100 years old and smells unlike anything else. The signature scent of 1920s goddess Marlene Dietrich, it has a vintage vibe that is utterly unusual, exotic, and mysterious. It’s what I would imagine a femme fatale in a film noir would wear. While it’s officially been classified as a floral, it’s hard to put my finger on what it actually smells like. It’s a little bit sweet but it’s not a juicy fruity or dessert-like gourmand. It’s powdery with a suggestion of spice but it doesn’t smell like a warm, enveloping oriental. Like the vixen in black and white movie, it’s complex and difficult to define.
I first discovered Veilchen when I was in Berlin a year ago. My boyfriend and I were exploring without any particular direction and I happily wandered right towards Frau Tonis, a German perfume house that has been crafting olfactory confections for a century. The fragrance-obsessed addict that I am, I knew without a shadow of a doubt that I was going to leave with a perfume. I ended up leaving with three (Veilchen, the airy floral Linde Berlin, and the aldehydic Akazie, both of which I will review in the future). As soon as I smelled Veilchen I was in love. Seriously, I practically swooned. To me it captured the way I felt about Berlin. It was at once vintage and dark yet modern and vibrant. And when the sales associate told me it was Marlene Dietrich’s favorite perfume, the deal was pretty much sealed. Because it’s so different than any other perfume, I knew that every time I wore it that it would take me back to the beautiful, historic streets of Berlin. Although I don’t wear it all the time (I want to savour it), every time I put it on, it transports me to that shop when I first smelled it.
There are only three notes in Veilchen, which is surprising because it really does smell intricate and extravagant. Violets, licorice, and raspberry are the three magic ingredients that combine to create this beautiful fragrance. After discovering that those were the three notes, it made sense because the overall aroma does smell powdery (like violets), sweet (like raspberry), and spicy (like licorice). The perfume is seamlessly blended though and it is hard to distinguish each note.
Veilchen is not a fragrance that I wear everyday (it’s too special for that and it’s difficult for me to order it) but it easily could be. Even though it smells exotic and sultry, it’s still soft and stays close to the skin, making it a good choice for daily wear. It’s especially beautiful when worn in the evening or during a romantic encounter – I feel that is what Veilchen was created especially for. It’s seasonless and luxe enough to be worn to formal occasions, such as a wedding. Like all timeless classics, Veilchen is gorgeous no matter what the occasion is.
Overall, this is a stunning, complex fragrance that centres around violet with a kiss of raspberry and licorice. If you’re looking for a perfume that is dark and sweet with a powdery, vintage elegance, then you must try Veilchen. Besides, who wouldn’t want to smell like Marlene Dietrich?