Scent Saturday | Akazie by Frau Tonis


NAME OF FRAGRANCE | Akazie by Frau Tonis Parfum Berlin

NOTES | Acacia, Wood Notes, Mimosa, Moss, Powder

VIBE | Elegant, Sophisticated, Aldehydic, Luxurious, Chic, Vintage

A few months back I did a review on another perfume from Frau Tonis called Veilchen and I promised then that I would review the other two scents I bought in Berlin called Linde Berlin and Akazie. I’m finally getting around to reviewing Akazie, another scent out of my Frau Tonis trio, and so without further ado, here it goes.

Let my start by saying that Akazie is not a perfume that will appeal to everyone. It’s very powdery and aldehydic, two olfactory qualities that are usually associated with the phrase ‘smells like an old lady’. Other examples of aldehydic perfumes (if you’re unsure what I mean) include Chanel No. 5 and Elizabeth Taylor’s White Diamonds. If you have smelled these scents you know that while they are classics, they’re not to everyone’s taste. Some aldehydic perfumes are very heavy and overpowering, choking you out with the synthetic smell of abstract florals and powder. Others, like Akazie, use this chemical note in a beautifully subtle way that enhances the other flowers in the perfume’s composition. If they are done right, the aldehydes add a vintage charm and complexity to an otherwise simple array of notes. Akazie has been blended beautifully and the florals and powdery notes are perfectly balanced.

When I first spray on Akazie, the mimosa and oak moss stand out the most. At this point the fragrance is incredibly feminine and elegant. It reminds me of a perfume that an Old-Hollywood starlet would wear. Mimosa is the star of the show here and remains the most prominent note throughout the entire fragrance experience. I’ve always loved mimosa, and it smells true to nature in this scent. When Akazie dries down (after around five hours), all that’s left on my skin is a soft, mossy floral smell and this is the part of the fragrance I love the most. It’s just so soft and delicate. Chypre-floral fragrances are my favorite perfume genre and this one is a real gem. 

Frau Tonis makes truly stunning scents and Akazie is no exception. Centering around the sweet perfume of mimosa, this chypre-floral fragrance is utterly unique and timelessly elegant. Because of its aldehydic undertones, it may not appeal to everyone. If you prefer super sweet, fruity confections, this may not be your cup of tea. If you love florals and perfume classics like Chanel 5, then this will be right up your alley. It’s not an everyday perfume but is perfect for special and more formal occasions. Like a luxe strand of pearls, Akazie has a refined beauty that is absolutely timeless. 

Alicia

frau-tonis-veilchen

Fragrance Friday | Frau Tonis Veilchen

NAME OF FRAGRANCE | Veilchen by Frau Tonis Parfum

NOTES | Violet, Raspberry, Licorice

VIBE | Vintage, Elegant, Sultry, Flirtatious, Eccentric, Mysterious

This dusky scent is nearly 100 years old and smells unlike anything else. The signature scent of 1920s goddess Marlene Dietrich, it has a vintage vibe that is utterly unusual, exotic, and mysterious. It’s what I would imagine a femme fatale in a film noir would wear. While it’s officially been classified as a floral, it’s hard to put my finger on what it actually smells like. It’s a little bit sweet but it’s not a juicy fruity or dessert-like gourmand. It’s powdery with a suggestion of spice but it doesn’t smell like a warm, enveloping oriental. Like the vixen in black and white movie, it’s complex and difficult to define.

I first discovered Veilchen when I was in Berlin a year ago. My boyfriend and I were exploring without any particular direction and I happily wandered right towards Frau Tonis, a German perfume house that has been crafting olfactory confections for a century. The fragrance-obsessed addict that I am, I knew without a shadow of a doubt that I was going to leave with a perfume. I ended up leaving with three (Veilchen, the airy floral Linde Berlin, and the aldehydic Akazie, both of which I will review in the future). As soon as I smelled Veilchen I was in love. Seriously, I practically swooned. To me it captured the way I felt about Berlin. It was at once vintage and dark yet modern and vibrant. And when the sales associate told me it was Marlene Dietrich’s favorite perfume, the deal was pretty much sealed. Because it’s so different than any other perfume, I knew that every time I wore it that it would take me back to the beautiful, historic streets of Berlin. Although I don’t wear it all the time (I want to savour it), every time I put it on, it transports me to that shop when I first smelled it.

There are only three notes in Veilchen, which is surprising because it really does smell intricate and extravagant. Violets, licorice, and raspberry are the three magic ingredients that combine to create this beautiful fragrance. After discovering that those were the three notes, it made sense because the overall aroma does smell powdery (like violets), sweet (like raspberry), and spicy (like licorice). The perfume is seamlessly blended though and it is hard to distinguish each note.

Veilchen is not a fragrance that I wear everyday (it’s too special for that and it’s difficult for me to order it) but it easily could be. Even though it smells exotic and sultry, it’s still soft and stays close to the skin, making it a good choice for daily wear. It’s especially beautiful when worn in the evening or during a romantic encounter – I feel that is what Veilchen was created especially for. It’s seasonless and luxe enough to be worn to formal occasions, such as a wedding. Like all timeless classics, Veilchen is gorgeous no matter what the occasion is.

Overall, this is a stunning, complex fragrance that centres around violet with a kiss of raspberry and licorice. If you’re looking for a perfume that is dark and sweet with a powdery, vintage elegance, then you must try Veilchen. Besides, who wouldn’t want to smell like Marlene Dietrich?

xoxo,

Alicia